This is in essence where the problem lies not the emboss aspect, but instead how 'literal' the tools are being in their interpretation of the tone and colour values interpreted from the image (we're in grey scale don't forget). The only real difference is the output, it's colour orientation is 'normalised' (Red, Green, Blue). By doing this all that's basically happened to the image is that it's been embossed because although 'we' can tell what the image is and what it's supposed to look, the tools can't.ĭesign note: it's worth pointing out here that the tools are effectively 'embossing' the image in exactly the same way you would normally do to any type of image if you wanted to create the illusion of 'faked' depth (like a beveled edge). It doesn't matter how much you alter the 'emboss' height values in the bump tools interface, you simply can't get 'clean' height information from the photograph so the end result in game is not particularly good it's essentially all 'surface' and no 'depth'. The easiest thing to do would be to convert the photograph to grey scale and then pass that through one of the bump tools to get a pretty quick normal map There is a problem with doing this the tools can't really get any 'genuine' height information from the image other than the very obvious stuff - the gap in the door and shadows caused by the presence of the hinges and so on. What we're going to be creating is a door similar to the photograph opposite. Depending on which tool is used varying amounts of control can be had over the resulting normal map in terms of how strong the bump effect is. Each of these app's basically converts the grey scale image into the equivalent DOT3 colour counterpart. The basic process is to use a grey scale image, created specifically for this purpose - to create a normal map - and pass that through either the ATI tga2dot3 stand alone tool, the nVidia photoshop, the 'Gimp' plug-in or any other 3rd party normal map generator). What you'll see outlined below is the best method currently available for producing normal maps from 2D art work, highlighting the things you should be aware of as you work and along the way helping you to understand what the various tools and utilities are actually doing in the process.
How to create a bump map in cheetah 3d how to#
It's not a technical thesis nor is it about passing photographs through the various filters either, you don't need instructions on how to do that in fact, this tutorial will highlight why you shouldn't do that, or at the very least why you don't get the results you'd expect from photographs. Because of this, bumps don't appear on the silhouette of bump-mapped objects.Having said that, this tutorial isn't a step-by-step guide - a "how to make a normal map" run through as it assumes you have at least a basic understanding of the photo editing application you have access to in order to create the objects required for the bump map process. The bumpiness is a simulation created by perturbing face normals before the object is rendered. Higher values render as higher relief low values render as low relief. The Bump map Amount setting adjusts the degree of bumpiness. Maps that shade between white and black generally work better than maps with hard edges between the white and black areas. Grayscale images can make effective Bump maps. (Using a Displacement map is another way to emboss a surface.) For example, the Displace modifier pushes surfaces or faces in and out based on the intensity of a map image. If you want extreme depth in a surface, use modeling techniques instead. Keep in mind, however, that the depth effect of a Bump map is limited. Use a Bump map to take the smoothness off a surface or to create an embossed look. In this case, the intensity affects the apparent bumpiness of the surface: White areas protrude, and black areas recede. You must render the scene to see the bump effect.Ī Bump map uses the intensity of the map image to affect the surface of the material. Note: The effect of a Bump map is not previewed in viewports.
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